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Six month check

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Checks and services

Six month check

We recommend that you take your car to a qualified technician for it's annual major service, as there are some items like brakes and timing that require special tools and knowledge.

It is possible for you to carry out a minor service without too much difficulty.

Engine oil

Vehicle manufacturers generally recommend changing the engine oil and filter every six months of 10,000 km, whichever comes first.

Even if you only travel 5,000km in six months, you still need to change your vehicle's oil.
Vehicles driven infrequently or on short journeys are just as prone to oil contamination as cars covering large distances.
One of the by-products of combustion is water, which gathers in the engine at low temperatures, such as start-up and during warm-up.
The water eventually finds its way into the engine sump where it mixes with the oil.
Vehicles travelling short distances spend a large part of their working life at low temperatures, so invariably these cars tend to need more frequent oil changes.
There are other contaminants such as acid, metal particles, dust and dirt, soot and unburnt fuel, that contribute to the break down of engine oil.
Regular oil changes will enhance the reliability and longevity of your car's engine.

Changing the oil and filter

The oil is thick when the engine is cold, so run the car for a few minutes before you commence work.

You will need to get underneath the car for this job, so chock the rear wheels, jack the car up and place axle stands under the body.
The owner's manual will indicate where the jacking points are and where to place the stands.
Remove the oil filler cap to prevent vacuum lock and speed up the flow of oil when draining.
Loosen the sump drain plug with the correct sized spanner and place a container underneath to catch the oil.
Make sure that the container can hold at least five litres of oil.
Check the owner's manual for the capacity of the sump.
Now tie a piece of string around the sump plug to prevent it falling into the container, you must be careful here because the oil will be hot.
Remove the sump plug and allow the oil to drain for a few minutes.
Refit the drain plug with a new washer if applicable and tighten firmly, be careful not to over tighten.
While underneath the car you can change the oil filter.
Remove the filter with an oil filter wrench, drain the oil out of the filter and put to one side.
Make sure that the oil filter-sealing ring has come off with the filter and clean the engine block at the filter housing with a clean cloth.
Now smear some fresh oil on the sealing ring of the new filter and screw the filter on until the seal contacts the engine.
Tighten about a half turn and wipe off any excess oil for the engine.
Lower the vehicle and fill the engine with oil to the required level.
The owner's manual will tell you the correct amount.
Replace the oil filler cap and dipstick.
Start the engine and run for a few minutes.
Make sure the oil light goes out and check for leaks.
Stop the engine.
Recheck the oil level, it may have dropped as the oil filter holds a small amount of oil.
Take the car for a short drive and recheck for leaks.
Write the date and mileage at which the oil was changed on a sticker and attach to the vehicle, preferably in the doorjamb of a prominent position under the bonnet.
This will serve to remind you of when the next oil change is due.
Waste oil and filters must be disposed of responsibly. Most councils have a waste disposal facility. Phone your local shire or council for specific details on how to dispose of these waste products in your area.

Spark plugs

Before checking spark plugs, it is a good idea to clean the area around the spark plugs to prevent debris from entering the engine when the plugs are removed.

Undo the plug leads taking note of their positions, it's a good idea to number each lead with a felt tip pen.
If they are incorrectly refitted the engine will run rough or not at all.
Check the leads for damage and replace any suspect ones.
Remove the spark plugs with the correct sized spanner and check the electrodes for wear.
Replace the plugs with the recommended type (check your owner's manual) if they are badly worn or the electrode is burned.
Whether you are fitting new plugs of refitting the old ones you will need to check the electrode gap with a feeler gauge.
Your manual will indicate the correct sized blade to use and it should fit smoothly through the gap.Refit the spark plugs by hand and be careful not to damage the threads.
Finally tighten with the spanner.
Do not over tighten.
Some spark plugs are difficult to access, use a spark plug socket with a rubber or magnetic insert to make this job easier.

Air filter

The air filter is located on the top of the carburettor or in the case of fuel injected cars to one side of the engine.

Dirty air entering through the induction system can cause premature engine wear. It is the air filter's job is to prevent this.
Undo the air filter-housing lid and remove the filter.
Clean any loose material from the housing, but be careful not to let anything get into the carburettor as this can damage the engine.
The air filter is a paper element and it can be difficult to determine whether it is dirty or not.
They are relatively inexpensive, so if in any doubt replace it.
Dirty air filters cause high fuel consumption and the savings made on fuel will outweigh the cost of the filter.
If you are driving in severe dusty conditions you can fit an oil bath type or washable type air filter.
They can be reused over and over and are available from good accessory shops.

Fanbelts

Fanbelts drive your water pump, alternator, power steering and air conditioning.

If your fanbelt breaks you might find the car overheating, the battery flat or the loss of power steering and air conditioning.
Any of these scenarios are potential disasters and should be avoided at all costs.
With the engine stopped you should be able to see any cracks or deterioration of the belts.
Minor cracks can turn into breakages very quickly, so have any suspect belts changed.
Check the belt tension, your owner's manual will help you with this.
Changing a fanbelt at one time was a very simple task, but with the advent of front wheel drive vehicles and more complex engine designs, this job is now best left to the experts.
Carry a spare set of belts for your car in the boot.

Brake and clutch fluid

The brake and clutch fluid reservoirs are usually mounted on the firewall in the engine bay (check your owner's manual for details of location and fluid type).

Be careful to clean any dirt from around the reservoir caps before opening as dirt can contaminate the fluid and cause inefficient brake or clutch operation.
If the reservoir is of the clear plastic type you should be able to check the levels without removing the caps.
Never over fill as brake fluid is corrosive and will damage you car's paintwork.
Keep a clean cloth close by to wipe up any spills immediately and wash the bodywork with clean water.
Brake fluid is hydroscopic which means that it absorbs moisture. Moisture in the brake fluid lowers the boiling point and corrodes brake components.
The owner's manual will indicate when the brake fluid should be flushed and we advise to leave this task to the experts.
Some cars have a brake pad wear indicator, it may be a warning light on the instrument panel or a metal clip on the brake pad which makes a squealing noise when the brake is applied. Be aware of what system is on your vehicle.

Under bonnet checks

It pays to be vigilant, early detection of problems can save you money and time.

Familiarise yourself with your car's components and be aware of changes in performance, handling and braking.
If something feels different have it checked out.
Every time you open the bonnet check around for oil and coolant leaks, cracked belts and hoses, corrosion and general signs of deterioration.
When underneath the car again check for oil and coolant leaks.
Check the exhaust for security and leaks.
Check the suspension and drive line joints for obvious wear and the brake and fuel lines for deterioration and leaks.
Worn or loose suspension and steering joints can cause excessive tyre wear, handling problems and steering vibrations.
If you experience any of the above take your car to an RAC approved repairer for diagnosis.

Cooling system

Check the expansion bottle level and top up if necessary with the recommended coolant.
Not all cooling systems allow checking of the radiator - your owner's manual will tell you which system applies to your vehicle.
It is important not to open the radiator cap until the engine is cold; the coolant in the system is under pressure and at normal working temperature can cause scalding.
Carefully remove the radiator cap and check the level.
If the level is low, top up with the appropriate coolant.
Check the cap seals for deterioration, as this can cause coolant leaks or low pressure in the system.
Low pressure can lead to overheating and in extreme cases engine failure due to coolant loss.
Do a visual inspection of all the cooling system components.
Check the hoses for softness and splitting.
Check all connections for evidence of corrosion and check the outside of radiator core for blockage.
Never use tap water in the cooling system, this can cause corrosion and eventually engine overheating due to cylinder head/head gasket failure.
If the cooling system requires topping up and you have no coolant use distilled water.

Automatic transmission fluid level

Most modern automatic transmissions need little maintenance, but you should check the fluid level and maintain your transmission as per manufacturer's instructions.

Your owner's manual will indicate the correct procedure for checking the fluid and the type of fluid required.
As a general rule the vehicle should be parked on level ground, at its correct operating temperature, with the engine idling, the gear selector in the park position and the handbrake on.
Some vehicles are checked differently so always check the manual.
Remove the transmission dipstick and wipe with a clean soft cloth, note the level indicators.
Now replace the dipstick and remove it again.
This time check the indicated level and top up with the correct fluid if necessary.
Also check the colour and odour of the fluid.
If the colour is dark and the fluid has a burnt or sweet smell, this may indicate an internal problem.
Many automatic transmissions are controlled electronically and are affected by fluctuations in battery voltage and poor electrical connections. If you are experiencing a transmission problem, check the battery voltage and verify the integrity of the connections.

Battery level and condition

The battery is a much-neglected part of the car's electrical system and the cause of most breakdowns.

Keeping the electrolyte level topped up and the terminals clean will ensure long life and a reliable start.
Some batteries are sealed for life and require no topping up, but the terminals should be kept free of corrosion and the battery case should be clean and dry.
If your battery is the non-sealed type then you can check the level by removing the caps and ensuring the electrolyte covers the plates.
Always top up with distilled water as tap water can contaminate the electrolyte and shorten the life of the battery.
Before attempting to clean the terminals, check your owner's manual as the radio code, engine computer and transmission computer can be affected by disconnecting the battery.
When disconnecting the battery always remove the negative terminal first.
Use a wire brush to clean the terminals and posts and reconnect the negative terminal last.
Smear some petroleum jelly over the terminals to repel moisture and prevent corrosion.
Never smoke or use a naked flame near the battery as explosive gases can collect in this area and ignite, causing serious personal injury and damage to the car's electrical components.

Lights and electrical components

Your car's lights not only show you the way, but also allow others to see you.

The front lights you can check yourself, but you may need some help with the rear.
Remember if your lights are not working your car is not roadworthy and you could be subject to a fine.
Light globes can be purchased from most service stations.
Your owner's handbook will indicate the correct type and the installation procedure.
Check the operation of all electrical components, wipers, horn, heater and rear demister.
If you cannot find someone to help, park the rear of the car close to a garage door or window and watch the reflection of the lights.

Windscreen washer fluid level

Check the washer reservoir and top up with clean water.
Add a windscreen washer solvent to prevent road grime build-up.
You can adjust and clean your washer jets with a small needle, but be careful not to damage the nozzles.
Regularly clean your windscreen with a glass cleaner.
Never use household washing-up liquid or detergents in the reservoir, as they can damage the wiper rubbers.

Lubricate door locks and hinges

Use engine oil to lubricate the hinges, dry lube for the lock strikers and graphite power for the locks.
Don't use grease on the strikers as this will usually end up on your clothes.

Tyre pressures and condition

Ideally pressures should be checked when the tyres are cold as the pressure increases with temperature.
Incorrect pressures can cause premature tyre wear and poor handling.
Purchase a good gauge, service station gauges can be erratic as they get bashed around a bit.
Some service stations have automatic tyre inflators - dial in the correct pressure, which you will find in the owner's manual or on the tyre placard attached to the car's bodywork, connect the hose to the tyre valve and the rest is done automatically.
Don't forget to replace the dust caps.
Carry out a visual inspection of the tyres.
Carefully check the sidewalls for cuts and damage, these can cause the tyre to blow out.
Check the tread for uneven or excessive wear and separation.
The minimum legal tread depth in Australia is 1.5 mm; all tyres have tread depth indicators between the treads at regular intervals.
If in any doubt about the condition of your tyres take the car to a specialist for advice.
Don't be caught out. Check the pressure in your spare tyre regularly and while you're doing that, make sure the jack and wheel nut spanner is in place.
Uneven tyre wear may indicate a wheel alignment problem.